Dhondt-Grellet – Les Nogers 2019
Premier Cru · Blanc de Blancs · Extra-Brut

Note (09.11.2025): To keep language clear and context specific, our English tasting notes are now published here on Berans-Pennet.de. The German trade page for this cuvée can be found on Assaggi-Weinhandel.

From old vines planted in 1974 on the north-east chalk slopes of Cuis (Premier Cru), this 100 % Chardonnay represents a turning point in Dhondt-Grellet’s evolution toward his own expressive language. The vineyard follows the rhythm of viticulture paysanne, where soil life and observation outweigh intervention. The result is not crafted for power, but for resonance and clarity.

The wine is fermented entirely in barrique, with complete malolactic fermentation and eight months on full lees before bottling (May 2020). It was disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of 1 g/L, reaching 13 % vol alcohol. Every movement in the cellar echoes the rhythm of natural equilibrium — a quiet dialogue between wood, air, and chalk.

Stylistically, *Les Nogers 2019* lies between the oxidative gravity of Bedel and the saline precision of Laherte Frères. It carries a discreet sherry-like spine reminiscent of Bedel’s *Autrefois* or *L’Âme de Terre*, yet remains bright and vertical with lemon zest and chalk tension typical of Cuis. The oak gives dimension, not aroma — aligning with Savart’s belief that wood should define structure, never perfume.

The palate moves along the edge between oxidative and oxidised, guided by firm acidity and a fine saline pulse. Paired with Brie de Meaux, the wine deepens, its body unfolding as the tension eases. The finish is long, incisive, and mineral-driven — a Champagne of balance and quiet force, marked by purity rather than weight.

For a wider perspective on limited cuvées and the philosophy behind rarity, see What Makes Limited Champagnes So Special.

Contains sulfites.